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    Victor Glemaud

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    Victor Glemaud often designs with a fabulous muse in mind; Indya Moore, Grace Jones, and Diana Ross have all populated his mood board in seasons past. For Spring 2020, however, the designer took a slightly different tack, paying homage to New York fashion legend Stephen Burrows. The reference was nicely aligned for several reasons—firstly, for their shared color sense and the hip-swiveling, disco-inflected vibe of their clothes. As one of a handful of black designers working on the New York fashion scene at the time, Burrows broke boundaries in the same way Glemaud is doing now, a connection that isn’t lost on either man.

    With the help of Bethann Hardison, who worked with Burrows back in the 1970s, Glemaud made contact with the 76-year-old designer. The conversations the two exchanged over email informed the collection Glemaud presented over champagne and cocktails at Spring Studios yesterday afternoon.

    “His point of view was fully formed straight out of the gate, and I think that’s so important as a designer,” said Glemaud. “He has a clear idea of what beauty looked like to him; everything came from this very instinctive place.” You could trace Burrows’s influence in the distinctive “lettuce” hem that trimmed ruffles on a beige tube dress and charming shrunken cardigans. Images of the gorgeous Angolan model Maria Borges, who stars in the new look book shot by Richie Shazam, were blown up big and plastered on the walls of the space. The geometric patterns that took shape on slinky maxidresses and crewneck sweaters were a modern update on the graphic motifs Burrows was known for.

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