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    Vaquera

    • coverage
    • collection
    • all seasons

    Vaquera was the third act of New York Fashion Week’s first-ever three-act show, an experiment in economy and comradeship that united it with Section 8’s Akeem Smith and the more veteran Shane Gabier and Chris Peters of CDLM. The look that signaled Vaquera’s section was a baggy pair of pin-striped pants, glittering silver heels, and a white tee that read “In Loving Memory of New York.” Vaquera’s Patric DiCaprio, Claire Sullivan, and Bryn Taubensee, not yet 30 any of them, are officially jaded New Yorkers. At least they still have their ideals!

    “It’s mostly about being let down in different ways: on Valentine’s Day, by the fashion industry—by New York,” DiCaprio said before the show. Taubensee picked up the thread: “We’ve learned it’s empowering to be frustrated and disheartened. In this new collection, you’ll see more of the old Vaquera, where we’re just like, ‘Fuck it, let’s just do it.’”

    They went about that in their signature ways: deconstructing some items and supersizing the conventionality out of others. This season’s industry cameo came from designer André Walker, an icon of theirs, who wore a pair of chin-grazing blue pants with aplomb—no easy task. The Vaquera runway has always been as gender bendy as they come; here, there were boys in heels and boys in dresses and bare chests on both sexes.

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