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    Sies Marjan

    • coverage
    • collection
    • all seasons

    Not a single platform shoe walked through downtown Manhattan’s Surrogate’s Courthouse today for Sies Marjan’s Spring 2020 show. That’s saying a lot for the designer who stomped his way into New York fashion four years ago with an irreverent sense of quirkiness that was all high shoes, shrugged-off shearlings, and relaxed cool separates. Instead, designer Sander Lak offered embossed croc riding boots or saucy little kitten-heeled sandals with claw-like leather straps. Why the sea change? As Lak told it during a preview of his collection, he wanted to move away from his more idiosyncratic pieces and try out an earnest, pure, genuine beauty. This collection, then, was about clothes intended to radiate pure luxury: sort of Upper East Side by way of the Rive Gauche. Irony, Lak said, was in his past.

    But it was sort of ironic when Lak acknowledged that time was the greatest luxury, and he had little of it. Because of ready-to-wear production schedules—and the fact that he just showed a menswear and see-now-buy-now collection in Paris this June—Lak could not bring the couture standards he so wanted to his RTW collection. Instead, he had to be clever and find new ways to get the look of timelessness in, say, eight to 12 weeks. The result was quite a lot of subversion. His most compelling takes were his faux animal prints, made by embossing croc scales onto duchesse satin or printing snakeskin onto silk. Cut into trenches or wrap skirts, these fabrics could read a little stiff at times, but you have to give Lak credit for pushing the boundaries of his textiles and trying new things. Elsewhere, he draped denim into bias dresses, wrapped scarves around the body to make elegant tops, and paired cute square-neck, button-up tanks with pants like a modern millennial suit.

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