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    Naeem Khan

    • coverage
    • collection
    • all seasons

    In 2016, the world lost one of its most visionary architects: Zaha Hadid. Known for her deconstructionist, space-age style, Hadid built the Guangzhou Opera House in China, the National Museum of 21st Century Art in Rome, and, in 2004, she became the first woman to receive the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize. She was many things to many different people, but to designer Naeem Khan, she was a very dear friend. His spring 2020 show was dedicated to her and her legacy, which is why he decided to stage his runway inside the lobby of a residential building she once designed in the Chelsea neighborhood of Manhattan. Khan was proud to point out that he lives just upstairs in one of the sleek, curvilinear apartments. “I wanted to do something more personal, salon style,” a relaxed, T-shirt-wearing Khan (he’s usually in a sharp suit) said backstage. For him, this season was about nostalgia and remembrance: of Hadid, of his days designing along Halston, of the era in fashion during which show intimacy outweighed a large and glossy front row.

    But Khan referencing the past is nothing new. The majority of his designs—the sparkly fringe minidresses, the slinky, sequin slips and gowns with hoods—are still closely bound to the aesthetic he built during his Halston days. That’s not to say they aren’t relevant, because they certainly are. Someone like a Bella Hadid or an Emily Ratajkowski would look fantastic in his body-hugging black sequin gown with a deep V-neck and padded shoulders. The same can be said when you imagine 2020 women like them wearing Khan’s liquid fuchsia silk dress. As per usual, Khan’s handiwork with beading and embroidery was stunning. This collection was clearly a very touching and personal one for Khan, and even if it could have used a bit more evolution away from the past in terms of point-of-view, it felt unapologetically like him—something that his fellow bold and fearless creative friend would have been very proud of.

    All Seasons

    Naeem Khan

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