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    Maggie Marilyn

    • coverage
    • collection
    • all seasons

    Sustainability is the most pressing issue designers have to tackle for Spring 2020 (and every season from here on out), and plenty of established names are scrambling to catch up. When you’ve had certain production and manufacturing practices in place for years (or even decades), you can’t just flip a switch and “become sustainable” overnight: Many of those changes are expensive and time-consuming. Maggie Marilyn is utterly chill about it, though, because she’s been part of this movement since day one. (Though she wasn’t always as vocal about it; when she launched back in 2016, her brand’s buzzwords were affordable and romantic because the industry had yet to equate sustainability with vision or luxury.) Now in her third year, she’s established her brand’s visual language and is getting more ambitious about its environmental impact. Her North Star goal is for Maggie Marilyn to one day be a completely circular business, meaning customers can return clothes they’re no longer wearing to be resold or repurposed into something else.

    Of course, nothing Marilyn has produced is particularly old or worn out yet; Spring 2020 is her ninth collection. As always, there were innovative materials like recycled polyester, organic cotton, and drapey Tencel, and she introduced linen for the very first time. “It always felt a little too earthy in the past,” she said, pointing out her best-selling ruffled blazer in beige linen. But here, it lent some soft contrast to her more familiar bright pinks and periwinkles. Speaking of color, it was almost jarring to see so much black in her showroom: A twist-sleeve midi-dress from a prior collection reappeared in black satin, and a few looks were worthy of a red carpet, like a full strapless gown and a flared bustier over trousers. It’s tempting to interpret a sense of doom and gloom in that shade, but Marilyn is an optimist; she was thinking more about how surprising and strong an all-black look feels in the springtime. (She probably has red carpets on the brain, too.)

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