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    Lou Dallas

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    Lou Dallas has gotten a sizable publicity bump thanks to Euphoria costume designer Heidi Bivens. On the hit HBO show, Hunter Schafer’s character Jules, an enigmatic teen new to slowed-down suburban life, wears several Lou Dallas pieces that emphasize her charismatic, if slightly out-of-place nature. In real life, Schafer and Bivens were in the audience of Lou Dallas’s Spring 2020 show today in artist Ray Smith’s Gowanus studio. The actress sported a ruffled apron worn over a leather coat. It’s this kind of offhand layering and quirky sweetness that have become designer Raffaella Hanley’s signatures, helping the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist expand her renown and her business.

    But on the runway today, Hanley pivoted ever so slightly away from her past collections. Yes, her sense of whimsy and craft—almost unparalleled on the New York scene—remains, but her garments were more traditional, finished, and formal than ever. The best pieces were upcycled trousers and color-blocked slip dresses, both commercially minded but not lacking in loveliness. Hanley’s sense of mixing materials is also developing in innovative ways, leading her to incorporate ostrich and upholstery fabrics alongside satins and homespun knits. She’s always been a fan of bustiers and crop tops, of which there are many for Spring, but Hanley’s most curious numbers this season are little ostrich dinner jackets with upcycled Swarovski crystal buttons.

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