Last season, artist and designer Sam Linder described his approach as “self-collage,” which ultimately translated to a mix of workwear, bohemian ’70s tropes, plaid prints, and even bleached corduroy blazers and culottes made to resemble Japanese shibori. He’s moved past this collage-like spirit, however, as evidenced in the much more streamlined collection he showed today at the Soho Grand Hotel. Think slouchy, ivory-colored silk crinkle suits; a perfectly fitted little black dress with a gracefully curved neckline; and trousers, jeans, and skirts made with sexy, scoop-shaped waists that Linder pulled off with some kind of tailoring magic.
Explaining the thrust of the collection backstage after the show, Linder made it clear he revels in the creative expression that results from limitations. “If there was a direction,” he said, “it was to simplify and get a really clear idea about the classic ingredients of clothing, silhouette, and fabric and not try to make too much of a style statement—just really try to do a good job with specificity and precision.” This only underlined his use of textiles—he made just three of the fabrics in the collection, including a waxy leather that’s somewhat of a signature and a print derived from a photograph of a refrigerator vent that he rendered into a stripe. He stumbled upon the rest of the raw material, such as overstock from eBay or a black fabric that looked like a mix of leather, latex, and silk that a member of his design team based in Italy sourced, claiming he works best in this sort of reactionary mode.