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    Jonathan Simkhai

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    • all seasons

    Just as some people are righties and others lefties, so many designers have a preferred season. Unsurprisingly, the Los Angeles–based Jonathan Simkhai describes himself as a “spring.” “I embody that,” he said preshow. “I always feel happy in spring, and I think that that joyfulness is something I can give to the clothes.”

    Even if Simkhai hadn’t shown his new collection on a rooftop bathed in sunshine, his clothes would still radiate softness and femininity of form, hue, and treatments. The designer’s palette was informed by the work of Georgia O’Keeffe; his focus on intricate pleating nodded to Madame Grès. Having had great success with his slip dresses, Simkhai stuck with them this season. With details like hand-pleating (the work of angels), lace insets, grosgrain back ties, and lingerie buttons, these iterations were less Courtney Love than they were Jean Harlow. It should be noted that there were as many treatments applied to the back of the garments (the subject of a current exhibition in Paris, by the way), as there were to the front. Simkhai’s slip dresses might have borrowed from the bedroom, but it was entirely possible to imagine them being worn with flat sandals and a cardigan at a farmers market, or perhaps with delicate heels to a summer wedding. A nice extension of the slip theme was a billowing parachute dress.

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