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    Christian Cowan

    • coverage
    • collection
    • all seasons

    Christian Cowan knows his client: She likes a heel, she loves color, and she’s not afraid to shine. His muses sat all a-sparkle in his front row this week—Erika Jayne to Karrueche Tran. A shout-out must go to the woman who wore a black feather tutu so wide it took up an entire bench. It’s this kind of look-at-me energy Cowan delivers on the runway, with his stretch crystal dresses, generous use of sequins, and love of a big-time plumage moment.

    But for Spring 2020, the designer sought to move past all the glitz and deliver a narrative. He drew inspiration from his mother’s family in Spain, using their seaside town of Moa?a as a starting point. The sequined bathrobe worn by Karolina Kurkova to open the show was a reference to toweling off after a dip, and the tie-dyed patterns were meant to evoke the colors of a summer holiday. Cowan couldn’t hold on to this theme for long, though. A harlequin pattern inspired by a perfume collaboration came out, followed by plenty of party frocks for his New York City girls. The diversity in his offering was honorable, but should Cowan want to make a bigger splash, he needs to hone in on the specifics. He’s done well for himself at a young age, but his work is too special to become a something-for-everyone proposition.

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