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    Bibhu Mohapatra

    • coverage
    • collection
    • all seasons

    It’s said that with age comes wisdom; in Bibhu Mohapatra’s case it also seems to have brought a newfound sense of freedom. Building a brand is an uphill struggle; having passed the 10-year mark with his fall 2019 collection, this designer seems to be enjoying the view. There was a new and refreshing airiness to his work for spring—despite having one of the heaviest backstories.

    An optimist, Mohapatra had already set his palette of mango, blue, and pink shades when he discovered Nothing Personal, a book by Richard Avedon and James Baldwin that considered American identity in words and pictures. More than 50 years later, it’s still a hot topic that’s being examined in courtrooms and classrooms, and even on catwalks. This important 1960s work seemed to guide the Indian-born designer to focus on qualities like strength, originality, and diversity that he feels are most American. It was an examination that led to the collection being “nothing but personal,” as he put it. Mohapatra decided to demonstrate his “craft and what I really bring to the table. I decided,” he said, “not to get bothered by what is expected of me so much.” It felt like a window had been opened.

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