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    Anna Sui

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    Escapism is only as good as where it gets you. For several seasons now, the idea of getting away from it all has inspired fashion designers to dream up collections about Morocco, Japan, the Mediterranean, the South of France, and dozens of other seaside locales. But Anna Sui is not like the others. What was offered on her Spring 2020 runway tonight was definitely a kind of escapism, but instead of flying off to a faraway destination, Sui escaped her models to a new state of mind. No pop, no punk, no psychedelia, and no new wave here—Spring 2020, as Sui explained in a preview, was about unabashed, whimsical femininity, light as air and frothing with sweetness.

    Her key reference was the mid-20th-century artist Lila de Nobili. A costume designer, set designer, and illustrator, de Nobili operated with a lively hand, rendering women like fanciful poufs of cotton candy. That unbearable lightness was what Sui wanted to capture with her chiffon dresses this season, layered over pants or under vests, like a modern mille-feuille of delicious design. (Cupcakes decorated like roses and succulents were also on the mood board, to hammer home the sweet tooth plot.) Victoriana was in the mix too, taking the form of pouf-sleeved mesh tops, bitsy tanks with beaded embellishment that evoked corset covers, and one adorable chambray set trimmed with tiny bows. The best dress by Sui’s own measure—and mine—was a mash-up of pale pink and blue prints collaged into a long tunic. It was so irresistibly breathy that as Felice Noordhoff walked, you couldn’t help but think it might just waft away.

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    All Seasons

    Anna Sui

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