Today at the Pavillon Cambon Capucines in Paris, designer Daniel Roseberry presented his debut haute couture collection for Schiaparelli. And above sharp tuxedo jackets with lizard skin lapels, Velcro sheath dresses decorated by detachable flowers, and cloudy, ceiling-bound faille gowns that wound around their wearers, there was an array of surrealist beauty statements.
In a nutshell, sparkle was everywhere—predominantly above the neck, with makeup artist Lucia Pieroni pressing glitter on nude and crimson pouts, but in one particular instance, on the neck. “Daniel wanted to have a floating head,” explained Pieroni of saturating one model’s neck in onyx paint and embellishing it with iridescent flecks. “The show space was all black, which would give this amazing illusion of a beautiful floating face. And adding the glitter was the obvious next step in this dream world. It was almost [like] a piece of jewelry!” Then, approaching showtime, Roseberry envisioned a look with Art Deco–inspired starbursts on the face, which found Pieroni meticulously gluing crystal decals, repurposed from the show’s twinkling shoes, underneath one model’s silver smoky eyes.
And naturally, the hair was far from one-dimensional, with editorial pro Eugene Souleiman crafting a showcase of hyperreal hairstyles, some dipped and dusted with vivid glitter, others topped off with beaded fringe headpieces. Subverting traditional codes of glamour with a hodgepodge of escapist—and decidedly Instagram-ready—hair and makeup moments, Schiaparelli just became a major player in the backstage beauty game.