Sarah Abbasi hadn’t intended to “do” bridal when she launched her label, Sahroo, last summer, but her knack for all things ivory has turned her into a burgeoning resource for the aisle-bound. Having grown up between Chicago and Pakistan, she has built her brand around the idea of modernizing the “uniform” of Pakistani women. Elegant matching sets are the foundation of their wardrobe: jackets and trousers, tunics and wide-leg pants, long skirts and blouses. Abbasi has the advantage of knowing exactly how those pieces are made—and how all clothing?should be made, really—because she saw it firsthand in her aunt’s design workshop.
Her circa-2019 twist? Adding feathered trims, hand-beading, and a bold color palette, plus more streamlined silhouettes, such as collarless blazers and cigarette pants. Her turquoise and cherry-red sets have become a nice alternative for wedding guests who hate cocktail dresses, but Abbasi has found that her best-selling pieces are actually an ivory feathered jacket and matching trousers. Women aren’t buying them to wear?to a friend’s wedding: They’re wearing them to their own engagement parties, rehearsal dinners, and, in some cases, their actual weddings.
The response from brides has been so strong, in fact, that Abbasi decided to build on the momentum with a full-on bridal collection, and she’s given?Vogue a first look at her hand-embellished caftans, sheer feathered dusters, and raw silk suits. At first glance, Sahroo stands out from other bridal collections because gowns aren’t the big story. The mix-and-match-able separates—which are still an emerging trend elsewhere in the market—are what brides will be drawn to. (Even Abbasi’s most classic-looking slip dress has such a high slit that you have to wear trousers or silk shorts underneath.)
“Brides really want to make their own looks now, so I’m excited to see how they put everything together,” Abbasi said during a walk-through in her apartment, where she takes private appointments.?“A lot of girls already come in and buy a few pieces so they can wear them a few ways—they’ll get a jacket with pants and shorts and see how they feel the day of.?I love the plain caftan over embellished pants, or you can wear the beaded caftan over slim trousers or shorts.?”
Abbasi hasn’t designed these looks under the assumption that brides will wear them down the aisle. She has all of their wedding-adjacent events in mind, too. “The culture around how women are choosing to get married and how they think about their style is really changing,” she said. “I’m really interested in how women are choosing to speak about themselves for this big moment in their lives. How are they choosing to dress for all of these events? They might want the white dress for the wedding, but then they can wear pants for the rehearsal, or something more daring for the after-party.” In other words, instead of banking on one gown, brides today have the opportunity to experiment with multiple looks and trends.